“We hold in common the belief that it is the obligation of historic sites to assist the public in drawing connections between the history of our site and its contemporary implications. We view stimulating dialogue on pressing social issues and promoting humanitarian and democratic values as a primary function. As a member of the Coalition; this site shares that committment.”
~International Coalition of Historic Site Museums of Conscience
Well that sign on the walls of the “Small Fortress in Terezin was to be my only photo from the day, however it’s a devil to make a yellow text on blue sign photo legible. It’s not that I didn’t take any photos, I did. 26 to be precise, but I’m not happy with them. I’m a little unsettled about the whole Terezin experience, to be honest.
Some of it is left over feelings of unsettledness about Auschwitz this weekend, but some of it is completely different. In many ways, Terezin/Theresienstadt is completely different. I think this stems from the fact that Terezin was in use as a fortress/prison long before the Nazis. Unlike Oswiecim and other sites which might not be on world maps if not for WW II and the Holocaust, Terezin had a pre-existing place in Czech history. I think it’s safe to say though that the international interest stems from World War II when the small fortress became a Gestapo headquarters.
On a non-WW II basis, I was very intrigued. We were able to visit the cell in the small fortress where Gavrilo Princip, the assassin of Archduke Francis Ferdinand, was housed. One thing I have learned about the Czech Republic in my time here is how central the Czech Republic (in its various incarnations as Czechoslovakia, Bohemia and Moravia, etc.) has been to European history. Its role (along with battles here such as White Mountain) is certainly not something that comes up frequently in history classes in the US. Seeing the “Small Fortress” itself brought back memories of the Alamo, though I have no idea why.
Our tour actually started in the Ghetto Museum and then the Magdeburg Barracks. I admit, I’d mentally checked out of some of this. I found it heartwrenching to see the artwork, music, writings, etc of people who never made it out, especially children. I did buy the book relating to Hana’s Suitcase, but that was more for its Czech/Japanese tie than anything else. Both the Museum and Barracks were museums and not really reconstructions of any sort.
From there, the tour moved to the National Cemetery and Small Fortress. The National Cemetery is intriguing in that its allegedly one of the few places in the world where you can see a cross and Star of David side by side. When compared to Auschwitz/Birkenau, the reason Terezin bothered me was primarily superficial: there were food sales, souvenir shops and other current items within the grounds. To me, those belong outside a historic site. The cinema can be explained, it’s apparently where the SS guards would watch their movies, and the pool was built by the prisoners in preparation for the Red Cross visit in 1944, but there is no need for a souvenir shop and cafe within the grounds. Put them outside the gate, but they didn’t ask me. I’m sure there was some good reason, but the guide didn’t know.
So basically Terezin is a good place to learn about Czech history, and if you haven’t done anothr Holocaust site such as Auschwitz/Dachau (as a classmate said)/etc. it’s a good place to learn about the Holocaust.
I think where I’m still ‘unsettled’ re: Auschwitz (meaning the Auschwitz section of the camps not the whole compound) is the fact that apart from the famous sign, you could be anywhere. Even the barbed wire doesn’t ‘say’ Holocaust. The exhibits do, of course, however the exhibits aren’t that different from Holocaust exhibits elsewhere. That isn’t to say they’re not good, just that there’s no differentiation. Why do people go to Auschwitz? I personally think a big part of it is name association. In many cases, you say Holocaust and people think Auschwitz. I’d love to look further into the stats of who goes and why.
As for Terezin, the same question of ‘why’ applies. It doesn’t have the name association that Auschwitz does. It is however significantly closer to Prague than Auschwitz/Birkenau is to Krakow, which helps. I wonder how many people are aware of Terezin, or that it’s in the Czech Republic before coming to the area? Do they plan to go or are they enticed by the Prague tour companies ‘selling’ it that well? I’d definitely be interested in that.
I think I have my paper topic for Culture & Heritage Tourism.
2 responses so far ↓
1 Susan Helene Gottfri // Jun 6, 2007 at 21:41
The Tour Manager and I have discussed one day going to Auschwitz. His grandmother passed through it near the end of the war; she and her two sisters (and apparently her mother and another sister) survived the experience. It was just about five years ago that we learned about her mom and other sister.
As a Jew, I come from this history of violence. My side of the family was mostly spared the Holocaust, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t other stories in our background. Cossaks, a la Fiddler on the Roof, who allowed my grandmother and her family to survive because of the pharmacist in the family. My father’s grandparents, who came from a town in Poland famous for herding most of the Jews inside, locking the door, and setting the whole thing on fire.
Violence doesn’t solve a damn thing. Killing each other doesn’t, either. One day, the rest of the world will figure that out.
And in the meantime, we can only hope that places like Auschwitz help spread that message.
Happy travels, darling. It’s been mucho fun to read and follow along.
2 Cari // Jun 7, 2007 at 08:33
Wow. I always find it interesting to hear people/their family’s stories. Have you heard the story of hana’s suitcase? I just read it, but it’s a story the kids might enjoy, albeit one without the happiest of endings. Let me know and its yours.
Amen on the violence-I used to have a great shirt that said “War doesn’t decide who’s right, only who;s left:”
And thank you, it’s fun to do updates. Helps me to think about my travels.